Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
